27 March 2025

Mr Cranston's Waverley Temperance Hotels – a link between Edinburgh and London

I've just returned from a long weekend in Edinburgh. Lots of walking. Lots to see. And, of course, I took lots of photos. 

As I was walking back towards the Old Town along Spring Gardens last Friday I noticed a ghostsign on the side of a building overlooking the railway line, the largest visible words 'WAVERLEY HOTELS'. 


Although I'd spotted lots of old hand-painted signs across the city I'd decided to restrict myself to just looking at them. But this sign was so huge and inviting – I had to try and get closer!
This end wall sits a little over a metre from the viaduct that carries the tracks and with my back pressed against the railway wall I managed to take a couple of oblique upwards shots but my old phone isn't really the best device for taking pics like this. 
I have today tried find a better quality image, because surely someone must have got there first, but I can't find reference of it anywhere which is probably because trees obliterate the sign for most of the year.
I have therefore done my best to enhance and stretch one of my dodgy pics in order to read the content:


CRANSTON'S
WAVERLEY
Temperance
HOTELS
EDINBURGH
Princes Street
AND
Waterloo Place

GLASGOW
WAVERLEY
182(?) Sauchiehall Street

LONDON
WAVERLEY
37 Kings St, Cheapside

(CRA.... ALL.... NO... S)

(Bottom left)
FOR TEA
DINNER 2/-
ROOM 1/-

(Bottom right)
PRIVATE PARLOURS 3/-
SERVICE 1/-
STOCK ROOMS From 2/-

(and two more lines full length across the bottom edge that I can't decipher)

The London Waverley hotel at the corner of Cheapside is no longer there but it reminded me that I'd found this ad in a 1935 Ward Lock London guidebook for three Temperance hotels near the British Museum, one of which was called The Waverley. You'll can still find it today at 130-134 Southampton Row, near Russell Square, though no longer part of the temperance movement, ditto The Ivanhoe and The Kenilworth which sit opposite each other at the junction of Gt Russell St and Gower Street the former since rebranded The Bloomsbury Street Hotel.

But who was Mr Cranston? Well, it turns out we have another link between Edinburgh and London because Abney Park's website makes good mention of Robert Cranston within this entry for Elizabeth Elliott Scott who worked at one his hotels in Lawrence Lane, Cheapside – it includes a marvellous 151 advertisement for Cranston's hotels 

As for the Waverley Hotel in Edinburgh – on Monday, with time spare before my train back to London, I'd stood opposite the building and wondered whether I should go for a look inside to see if there was anything left of its Victorian interior. Having not started this research until today, I had not at that time made the connection to the Temperance movement and simply thought that t was named after Edinburgh's Waverley railway station. I instead sat on a bench in the sunshine and did a bit of people watching. Having googled the hotel's history, I can now see that I would have been disappointed –the hotel's fancy, albeit grubby, façade belies its interior which has been stripped of all historical decoration, making it almost indiscernible from many other hotels of this ilk.

Robert Cranston is buried in Grange Cemetery, Edinburgh.

Almost forgot – the sign is painted on the side of a Victorian social housing block at 10 Brand Place which retains its access from the street via an open staircase, very similar in design to the developments erected by Sidney Waterlow and his IIDC friends in London.  

22 March 2025

Large lumps of York stone beneath The Duke of York Column

After gravelling around on Horseguards' parade a couple of week's ago, I made my way towards St James's via The Mall and the steps that lead up to The Duke of York column:

This distorted image is a screengrab from Google streetview

I was half way up the second flight when I realised that the surface beneath my feet was/is of the lovely York stone variety. I mused at the coincidence re the duke and the stone. 


I also noticed how jolly large some of the slabs are, something I have noticed in other places such as in Marylebone and Covent Garden.


Two of the slabs on the middle landing are definitely bigger than my double bed. My trusty measuring app tells me they are approx 3 metres x 2.4 metres, which is slightly larger than the ones in Central Avenue at Covent Garden piazza. 

The slab at the centre here also features a little square indentation which might be something to do with the installation process. Wiki's basic info about this landmark says that there's York stone to a depth of almost 3.5metres under the column itself. Wow. Grand indeed.

20 March 2025

Broken glass and gas lamps on Horse Guards Road

I'm still writing about the zone between Horse Guards Parade*, St James's Park and The Mall, because there's so much to discover ins such a small space. Scroll down to see the previous posts. 

At the junction with The Mall there is a building known as the Admiralty Citadel. It's a bug lump covered in creeper.  At this time of year it's possible to see a panel affixed to its side telling us that it houses a dry riser inlet valve (amongst other things). 

In front of that there is a smaller building also covered in creeper looking like the big building had a baby, or a poo. Next to that, there's a tall skinny glass sculpture. This is the National Police Memorial. The water feature at the base has been removed (as per many other memorials near here) and the lights no longer illuminate it, but I actually now prefer it for its simplicity and the way that daylight seeps through and enhances its damaged and repaired corner sections, where different coloured glass has been inserted, resembling jewel-like slivers.


Nearby, within the pavement, I noticed a circular utility plate, approximately the same size as a coal hole cover plate, but bearing a design I have never seen anywhere else – three concentric rings of Jazz Age era letters that look like E D repeated.


A few metres along the path I found anther one, and then another and another, some of them almost obliterated by the road surface. I wondered what they were used for as they certainly weren't for the delivery of coal. 
I crossed over to the park side of the road and found another one very close to one of the huge gas lamps.


And then it hit me – Aha! yes! These plates must be access for either the gas feed or the electricity for the timers that power these impressive lanterns along Horse Guards Road which were installed during the rein of George V** 
The letterform on these plates is very Art Deco, a chunkier version of the 'Broadway' typeface, but what is the relevance of ED? Who was Ed?! It's more likely to signify something like Energy Department.
 
A GRV cipher on one of the lamp posts.

Any further info, please leave a comment or contact me via email: jane@janeslondon.com

*In an earlier post I wrote this as one word, horseguards, and queried whether this should have a possessive. Having just checked the a few maps, I only now discover that it's Horse Guards; two words with no indication of possession. No guards for a horse to wear. Nor does the horse do the guarding. Well, not alone, he has a guard on his back, the guard being a man, a soldier.  I'll stop now as I am confusing myself! 

**These lamps feature on my London by Gaslight guided tours which I will continue to offer into the late spring, starting at 8pm or later – let me know if you are interested.

18 March 2025

Railings made from wartime stretchers – spot one and you'll start seeing them everywhere!

In my last post, looking at remnants of woodblocks, I mentioned that I'd been walking through the residential streets in Bermondsey, between Long lane and Tabard Street, here. I'd returned to this zone on a Friday because I'd actually intended to have a look around the much-diminished Bermondsey Antique Market and, being as I was in the vicinity, I thought I'd revisit some repurposed WW2 metal stretchers I'd often noticed on a corner along Long Lane. 

There are similar examples of stretchers as railings across London (see the list at the bottom) and whenever these have been pointed out to me, they have often been described as oddities. I was sure I'd seen more than just a handful of these things in Bermondsey so, after a conversation with a Vauxhall-based friend who had doubted me, I headed back to take a few snaps as evidence. 

I approached via Hankey Street and found some stretchers there lining both sides of the meandering street:


Hmm, I'd never walked down this road before and thought that these stretchers didn't look like the ones I spotted before; I was sure the buildings behind them had been the red brick late-1930's London County Council variety and that the stretchers had faced Long Lane, so I continued down to Manciple Street, turned left and left again into Staple Street and found it was also lined with stretchers, many with privet hedges growing through them.


When I again joined Long Lane I found the stretch of stretchers that I was looking for, adjacent to the post box including one that's been in a war of a different kind:


Interesting that these metal mesh fences were added after the war. I'm assuming they replace broken or trampled fencing. 
I headed eastwards along London Lane and, deciding that this needed a proper investigation and the market could wait for another week or two, I turned right into the state via Weston Street and found myself in 'Stretcher Central' because the things are almost everywhere casting interesting shadows on the pavement, their layers of peeling paint showing they were previously painted a bright shade of green:


The bended bars and black mesh continues around and past the LCC's 1930's buildings at the southern end of Mancipal Street and into Pardoner Street and Law Street. 


I followed the stretchers along Law Street passing an old pub that is now Leo's Den Nursery but still sports an old pub sign of a sheep hanging above the door – how amusing if the pub used to be called The Slaughtered Lamb (poor little lambs!) – then all the way down to Tabard Street and left around Pilgrim House into Potier Street. 


Phew! I decided that was enough and managed to get to the antiques market just as the stallholders were packing up. 


This Bermondsey estate and its 'sister' the Rockingham Estate just to the south, surely must contain the greatest concentration of these things. 
Hackney and Lambeth can also boast quite a few, the latter having a Facebook page on the subject. More information about Lambeth's housing estates can be found on Municipal Dream's excellent Substack page
I am pretty sure I have spotted stretcher fences in Camden, but I cannot now recall where I saw them, and there surely must be some stretchers surrounding similar estates in Tower Hamlets...?

Here follows a list of others I have either seen or been told about. However, some of these might have since been removed and replaced as per the ones in Pytchley Rd, off Dog Kennel Hill in East Dulwich as shown here in 2014 which I am hoping have been repurposed somehow. Please let me know about any of the others on the list so that I can add streetview links to those that don't have them:

17 March 2025

More bits of woodblock paving – Bermondsey and Chalk Farm

Walking northward through Camden recently, as I passed the the station and crossed Inverness Street I stopped occasionally to check that these manhole covers in Chalk Farm Road are still filled with wood blocks – yep. Good. 

I went for a wander, musing that the markets here aren't markets any more, just Bansky and Winehouse opportunities surrounding some food outlets. I continued up the street then just after The Roundhouse, I found another wood-filled manhole cover within the large triangle of pavement at the corner of Regent's Park Road:

Only two segments retain wood, but that's enough for me!

A few days later I was ambling through the residential streets between Long Lane and Tabard Street in Bermondsey, SE1, and I found another man hole cover in Hankey Place, the wood almost hidden by the greenery growing within it. How lovely!


This broken line design is new to me – the lines are usually solid as per the one at Chalk Farm, above. We can assume that this was a specific feature of covers made by this particular maker, who is shown around the rim of the cover plate as: Frederick Bird & Co., engineers, ironfounders, West Drayton near London. This is a company I have seen adorning many coal hole cover plates including those made by Bartle & Co of Notting Hill Gate who implemented Bird's patented self-fastening locking system, as shown here

10 March 2025

The Eyes of March

Yes, you read that title correctly – this is about Horseguards' Parade (where they march) and some intriguing markers I have espied during this month of March.
This first appeared on my Substack feed.

Walking across Horseguards’ Parade (possession or not? I say yes) with Chris, a lady who had attended the walk I had just led around St James’s Park* and, as I glanced down at the ground around my feet, I noticed the hint of a number 2 carved into a stone. Ooh. I cleared away the thin layer of chippings with my shoe and, as we discussed what this might signify, we spotted another marker to the left with a number 3 on it. 

How many times have I walked across here and not seen these before?!I say ‘walked’ but in truth I like marching across like a faux soldier, making that marvellous noise on the gravel. Schlerlump di dum, schlerlump di dum. 
Chris had been telling me that she’s a big fan of pomp and ceremony and often visits for changing of the guard and anything happening on or around the parade ground. She was as intrigued by the markers as I was. We decided they must be for the huge events here and surely there must be more of these markers, and so we scoured the ground to the left and right and forwards and backwards. I’d found a sleuthing partner! Aha! 
We found similarly-spaced markers bearing the numbers 3 and 4: 
This view is across the parade ground looking back to markers 2 and 3, Whitehall to the left, park to the right. 

The two pairs of numbers seem to be equidistant of the central line where we found larger grey stones with carved ruts in them that we summised might be used to park gun carriages, but I forgot to take photos of those. Convinced there surely must be pairs of markers bearing the numbers 1/2 at the southern side and 4/5 on the northern side, we hunted further but found nothing. We asked inside the museum. The staff at the counter also suggested that they were probably parade markers. 
I took Chris into the archway that leads to Whitehall and showed her the scratched graffiti that I wrote about here. We said our goodbyes and I returned to the parade ground to again search for more markers. 
 
A shadow selfie. Looks like I’m a bag lady on a beach. 

After five mins of gravelling I found a lonely 6 near the northern edge where the figure is oriented north to south: 


Despite some meticulous foot sweeping action to the 3&4 and back again, a number 5 was nowhere to be found. It must be there. It must be! 
I have an idea is that these mark the corners of the grandstands rather than stop/start points for the troops. I did spot some other intriguing (metal) things in this vicinity, but that can wait for another day. See you soon. 
 
*tours in The Royal Parks - have I not mentioned this? The St James’s Park tour includes pelican feeding and access to Duck Island, and there’s another walk I lead for them in Ken Gdns that concludes with access to the Albert Memorial. Find them here.

26 February 2025

Small remnants of wood block road surface in Shoreditch, EC2

Oooh... I've found more bits of +100year-old wood still embedded in our streets.

Well, your honour, I was wandering along Scrutton Street, London EC2, heading in a south-easterly direction, when I happened upon this manhole cover outside No.44, opposite No.51:

Nice. So I retraced my steps and found more wood in another manhole just a few metres away outside No.48-50 – it was hard to make out the how many segments contain wood being as it was filled with rain that day:


I thought about hunting for more, but the weather was miserably cold and I'd been on my feet all day, so I will check next time I am in the vicinity.

To see all the woodblocks I have found so far, click here. A guided walk on this subject should be available by June via janeslondonwalks.

4 February 2025

Calthorpe Terrace – ghosts of bygone shops in Gray's Inn Road

When I travel along Grays Inn Road on a No17 bus I like to admire this west-facing terrace between Calthorpe Street and Wren Street. 

Ever other shop along here shows hints of a bygone era, specifically numbers 240, 244 and 248 which, judging by the embellishments and metalwork on the upper floors, looks to be 1830s-ish. 

Reading left to right, north to south, let's start with number 248, C. Antoniou, tailor:

Pic taken from the upper deck of the bus. I do have better photos but this illustrates my point.   

This shop, with its hand-painted signs on the wooden fascia and on the window glass, has looked like this for as long as I can recall. But I cannot ascertain when Mr. Antoniou started offering his tailoring services here (perhaps I should simply go in and ask them or phone that number!) but I can see no tailors listed here before WW2. A hairdresser by the name of William Fowler was here in 1910 and there is nothing listed at all for this address in 1939 by which time Rosen & Rosen tailors, who were next door  at No.246, in 1910, have given way to a print supply shop.

Two doors along, today's hair salon window advertises two brands of Wills's cigarettes, revealed during renovations in 2020. 

The Wills's company was one of the largest tobacco manufacturers in the country. 

This shop has been a tobacconist since at least 1882 when James White's name would have been over the door. Gold Flake first appeared on the shelves in 1901 and I suggest this advertisement probably dates from the 1910s during Hebert Stoddart's era, although I expect Mrs Rubina Smith was still offering the same brands in 1939.

Note also the impressive columns here showing that this was originally the doorway to the shop, today slatered in layers of grey paint (it was white pre-2020 – what is it with the over-use of grey paint these days?!)  Other decades-old signs have also been discovered and retained in the last few years – there's another Wills's sign in Hornsey Rise and the St.Bruno ads in St Paul's Rd.

Staying with smoking and also revealed in 2020... Fourways convenience store at No.240 displays a 1970s-era Player's No.6 cigarettes sign above the shop, showing that the proprietors were RL & M Griffiths:

Back in 1882 this was a baker shop owned by Henry Harvey Bearns. By 1910 it had become a tobacconist, at that time run by Mrs Sarah Fair. In the late 1930s Walter Stewart was selling here. It's interesting how two tobacconists could survive in such close proximity to each other and I'm wondering if they offered different brands. 

There used to similar shop sign to this at 65 Highbury Grove revealed in the period 2009-12, but they painted over it rather than covering it with a board (duh!) and I think I recall another No.6 fascia in Chatsworth Road, Hackney, again, gone.

Incidentally, it's unusual to see that the Calthorpe Arms is not at the Calthorpe Street corner as is usual in cases like this where a pub has the same name as the terrace, originally called Calthorpe Terrace when there were fewer properties along this road. 

Seeing these old signs reminds me of one of the first posts I ever wrote on here about the reveal of an electrical components store near the junction with Clerkenwell Road, back in 2008. More recently, I wrote about this tiled shop at the Kings Cross end of the street.

29 January 2025

Join The Conversation at St Martin-in-the-Fields. Robert Macfarlane and the plight of our rivers.

Last night I sat within one of London's gorgeous churches to listen to hear Robert Macfarlane in conversation with Peter Florence. This forms part of a series of events on Tuesday eves at 6.30pm through to May 6th.

Robert Macfarlane is a wonderfully engaging and inspiring man who has written many books about the world around us, how it affects us, and what we could and should be doing to protect, preserve and conserve our environment and, therefore, the planet. 

Last night, Robert talked about ecological degradation, how there are three million birds fewer birds in the US's skies since 1970, how this era we are living in will be evidenced by geologists in the future as The Anthropocene, how rivers worldwide are dying, that every UK water course in the UK is unhealthy. He posed the idea that if we were to regard our rivers as living beings perhaps we'd regard them with greater respect. He asked us to think about our local rivers as our neighbourhood friends. 

I thought about my local rivers. Hmm. I need to get on a bus to get to The Roding, The Lea, The Moselle and Dollis Brook. The ones closer to home, such as the Hackney Brook, The Tyburn and The Fleet were conduited into pipes below ground a long time ago, having been first turned into open sewers before being covered completely, the adjacent land being profitable for development. Although sections of The Fleet can be found on Hampstead Heath.

I decided that my local river is, therefore, The New River, which we all know, isn't new or a river, but a canal created in the 1610s to bring clean water to London from Hertfordshire because the rivers at the centre were already full of human waste. 

400 years of river abuse. Now, where shall I dump this trolley full of plastic bottles and face wipes?



24 January 2025

Not bog standard – Central London's public conveniences

We often read that there are hardly any public conveniences in London these days. Campaigners complain that there are scant facilities available to us. We've lost our loos, they say. It's outrageous.

Four years ago, most public conveniences were closed during the pandemic. But many of them were never to reopen, or they were available to us for only a short while before being locked up again, such as Westminster's Council's facilities opposite Madame Tussauds and in Broadwick Street, Soho (shown above). Information notices often told us in these instances thatthese facilities had been closed due to them being used for illicit purposes or abused/misused by revellers. 

Yet, just around the corner from Broadwick Street at the rear of Liberty's there is another pair subterranean conveniences, that remain open. They are well-designed, clean and lovely. Here's the interior of the Women's* loos decorated in ice cream tones, the tiles depicting 1960's fashions to echo Carnaby Street's groovy heyday: 

I was there for at least ten minutes taking photos and no one else came down the stairs. My male friend checked out the men's toilets. He was the only person in there too. 

I have returned whenever I am in the vicinity. I have only once seen other people in there, when I chatted to four Swedish girls last August. 

I suggest that the people who are campaigning for more public toilets have not experienced how under-used the existing ones are. It's a shame because Westminster, in particular, offers to us some delightful, facilities, all with bespoke tile art and differing colour schemes.  

First, Covent Garden Piazza, accessible at the side of St Pauls:

Next, Westminster Underground station/Whitehall:

Similar tiles are now hidden from us within other Westminster toilets, such as at Kensington Gore when the wall tiles depict images of The Albert Hall etc, and, I'm guessing, within the inaccessible inconveniences at Hyde Park Corner too.

UPDATE: I have just discovered this article from Nov2024 announcing that Westminster is going to open some of the closed facilities and upgrade some of the ones shown above. I really hope this does not mean the loss of these unique tiles, but I think judging by the main image on that article that is exactly what will happen I don't think a change of wall covering will encourage more beople to use these toilets. Read  my reasons for that further down...  

There are also some other tiled facilities still available to us in the form of marvellous Edwardian era lavatories that still retain their chunky Art Nouveau basins and heavy wooden doors. These can be found in the Hampstead area (West Hampstead below) and although perfectly amenable are always devoid of other people whenever I pop in. I discovered that the similar ones at King William Walk, Greenwich closed only a few years ago and I very much doubt they will ever open again.  

So, how come these were all empty when I visited them?

It's clear to me that the public, perhaps specifically the British public, is reluctant to use these basement conveniences, perceiving them to be sleazy places, frequented by perverts and drug dealers. Having to descending into an underground space that isn't visible from the outside is also off-putting to most people, hence the masses prefer to use the facilities in nearby shops, bars and restaurants, which means that the council's well-maintained, clean and efficient public conveniences become under-used and subsequently abused and, because of they are secluded environments they then get used for the wrong reasons... and so the cycle begins again.  

On the flip side, some of London's public toilets are frequently in use during working hours. These can be found in zones that surround street markets such as in Portobello Road (below) and Camden Town where they have a visible attendance rate, therefore promoting the safety, popularity and convenience of the space beneath street level.

*It's interesting how the male/female signage changes from site to site. For instance, at Carnaby Street it's Men/Women and at Camden it's Gentlemen/Ladies. 

There's a strange additional plural applied at Lincoln's Inn Square (above), something that I pointed out to one of the cabbies there because he asked why I was taking a photo of a toilet. But when I explained that the ladies loo is just LADIES not LADIESS, he just smiled inanely at me, in that 'avnt gotta clue wot yor on abaht luv' way!

In a similar punctuational vein, there's a MENS LAVATORY at Gt Portland Street station (inaccessible and looks to remain so for the foreseeable future):

The Ladies is not marked as a lavatory. Ladies don't pee you see, they rest. And so must I.